Laos, Please Don't Rush!

Years of war and communist regime hinder travellers from crossing its borders, only until mid 90s, the government reversed their stance on tourism. It immediately emerged as a craze destination for backpackers, despite the flocking tourists, it's still far less commercial than its neighboring countries, the laid back vibes. A landlocked country borders with Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and China, it is the least developed country in SEA.

Cuisine of Southeast Asia meets French.

Off city limits, surrounded by dusty roads, children frolicking by the streets, tiny stores decorated in its most vintage way, entire families on motorbikes, thatched huts contrasting new modern developments.

Now that's, Laos.

Modest homes and small Hmong villages in Vang Vieng outskirt.

Average Cost
Accommodation
    1. Hostel/Dorm- $4-8 USD
    2. Hotel with private bathroom- $9-15 USD

Food
    1. Local Laos Food (Stall)- $0.74-0.99 USD
    2. Local Laos Food (Restaurant)- $3-3.70 USD
    3. Western Parlors (Restaurant)- $5-10 USD

Transport
    1. Vientiane to Vang Vieng (Cab)- $90 USD for a sedan cab
    2. Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang (Minivan)- $11 USD per person on shared van
    3. Luang Prabang to Vientiane (Sleeper Bus)- $11 USD per person
    4. Luang Prabang City to Kuangsi Waterfall (Minivan)- $5.50 USD per person on shared van
    5. Vientiane City to Buddha Park (Sedan)- $4.5 USD per person on sedan car
    6. Bicycle rental- $3 USD each bicycle

Places to Visit
Vang Vieng
    1. Blue Lagoon & Tham Phu Kham Cave- entrance $1.23 USD
    2. Tham Nam Water Cave Tubing- entrance $1.23 USD
    3. Sunrise/Sunset Hot Air Balloon ride- entrance $70 USD- skipped
    4. Plain of Jars- didn't visit

Luang Prabang
    1. Mount Phousi (Sunrise/Sunset)- entrance Free
    2. Wat Xieng Thong- entrance $2.50 USD
    3. Kuang Si Waterfall- entrance $2.50 USD
    4. Pak Ou Caves- entrance $2.50 USD- didn't visit

Vientiane
    1. That Dam (Black Stupa)- entrance Free
    2. Wat Si Saket- entrance $0.60 USD
    3. Wat Si Muang- entrance Free
    4. Pha That Luang (Golden Stupa)- entrance $0.60 USD
    5. Buddha Park- entrance $0.60 USD + $0.40 USD for camera
    6. Patuxai (Arc of Independence)- entrance Free
    7. Mekong River Bank- entrance Free
    8. Watch a football game at Chao Anouvong National Stadium- entrance Free

Notes of wisdom:
    1. Exchange Thai Baht to Laotion Kip in Banks (not booth)
    2. Laotians are super sweet and nice, please respect their culture
    3. Bicycles are your best friends!
    4. Pre-book your accommodation
    5. Long sleeve and pants for entering temples- Respect their culture!
    6. If you have enough time, you should visit Nong Khiaw and Bolaven Plateau
    7. Do not trust Google Map travel duration! 
    8. Do not trust Wikitravel suggestion to used Thai Baht and USD for transaction, profound stupidity!
    9. At Laos, please don't rush!

++ Shot on Nikon D750 + Nikkor 28mm PC + Nikkor 50mm f1.2 ++ 

VANG VIENG

We hop onto a cab head over to Vang Vieng immediately after we've touch down Vientiane Airport (Wattay), an unappealing 4 hours potholes dirt road drive from Vientiane to Vang Vieng. This is probably the most implausible party town, laying deep in the central Laos, the once tranquil farming village turn into a backpackers mayhem, most for the party but we, thankful to its natural beauty along with towering limestone peaks, dense with caves, lagoons and forests.

You may come here for tubing but stay for the stunning riverside scenery, beautiful mountaintop and lovely limestone crags. Hire a bicycle and explore Vang Vieng-  it may just be the most rewarding experience you have on your trip.

Not to forget slack off at any cafe, order a beer and enjoy the endless reruns of Friends and Family Guys. Absolutely surreal!

We ought to cross a wooden bridge to the bamboo charm of Champa Lao Bungalows.

Probably exhibit the best authentic experience, a beautifully appointed Laos style in bamboo charm of Champa Lao Bungalows, arranged around lush tropical garden courtyard, incredible cosy area with hammocks overlooking beautiful greenery, 5 minutes walk from the city center.

7km ride from Vang Vieng city to Blue Lagoon, riding along potholes, pit-run gravel, it turns out to be one of the most memorable experience on our trip.

The water was in a stunningly shade of blue from limestone around.

Stopped for photo with the majestic limestone crags.

Vang Vieng town- abundance of good food with quiet beer and night activities.

Slack off at cafe with beer and endless Friends and Family Guy reruns.

Vang Vieng nightlife.


ROAD FROM VANG VIENG TO LUANG PRABANG

It was nice waken up by rooster with this view from our bungalow.

Sunrise view from Champa Lao Bungalows.

Western breakfast at the Belgian cafe for another adventure of cliff drives.

Six hours of jostling around on a minivan, veering close to the edge of cliff, and the driver's bathroom breaks, well off the aforementioned cliff. Driving through some of the most beautiful mountain ranges i've ever seen, worth it, this is probably one of the must do thing in Laos! For most of the way it lined up with wooden huts and market stalls, women selling surplus produce of farms, children play sands in dust at roadside, chasing plump puppies.

Mountain range from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang.

6 hours through the twists and turns of mountain roads.

We reached Luang Prabang at noon, quaint, beautiful, romantic of French colonial architecture, delicate temples, drenching at the confluence of of Mekong river and Nam Khan river. First day, filled ourselves at JoMa bakery for hi-tea, explore historic temples, hike onto the Mount Phousi, shop at the foothill night market.

Nam Khan River

Buddha in storage of Wat Xieng Thong, alongside the cremation chariot of Lao king with large naga heads at front and urn at back.

A small chapel at the side of Wat Xieng Thong with tree of life mosaic in colored glass on a dark red background, the craft shows worshipers and Buddha images in pastoral setting with trees, plants, and animal, the mosaic was crafted in 1960s by Lao craftsmen. 

Dok So Fa- a decorative element in the center of the main roof.

The tree of Life- Wat Xieng Thong was remodeled in 1960s, becoming a splendid temple we see today, roof was repaired, entrance gilded, both interior and exterior covered with black, glossy lacquer and decorative figures, and symbols in gold leaf.

Monk at Mount Phousi.

Sunset at Mount Phousi.

Distinctive figure on the Luang Prabang skyline, overlooking across the city and temples surrounding landscape

Colonial French buildings sitting at the foothill of Mount Phousi.

A kilometer long night market across the French colonial buildings.

Lot of interesting items on display, but some are not cheap, you probably need to bargain your way out but don't expect a huge discount.

Located along Sisavangvong Road from Royal Palace Museum, Here's something not to be missed in this charming city, it offers a selection of extensive handicraft made by local ethnic groups.

Sabaidee Barbeque Restaurant, along Nam Khan river, is a fun spot try to cook your own meal, Lao style.

The UNESCO world heritage city of Luang Prabang says it all, this is the perfect place to see one of the most sacred Lao traditions, the Buddhist Alms Giving Ceremony. Alms is giving daily as sun rises, begin on the main street of Luang Prabang before spreading out to all sides of streets. Tourists can buy their own offerings in advance and arrive with plenty of time to spare as it's offensive to disrupt the ceremony once it has commenced. It's a peaceful and spiritual ceremony to ancient Lao tradition, please do not use camera flashes on monks!!! It will bring you bad luck and curse for the rest of your life.

Around 200 Buddhist monks depart from their various temples to gather their daily meal.

Although the main purpose is for the locals to give alms to monks, you will also notice there are children with basket in the hope that the monks will share some of their alms so that they can take food back to their family.

Monk giving.

Monks in their daily routine, cleaning their stupa.

The tranquil event happens in an extremely fast pace, make sure you got to the main before it broke of dawn, this was taken after alms giving ceremony, the sun is barely awakes.

Gorging ourselves a big breakfast at an Aussie bar.

KUANG SI WATERFALL- LUANG PRABANG TOWN & 11 HOURS ON THE BUS!

Crispy clean, and cold water cascades gently over limestone formations, gathers into layers of stunning turquoise pools, a rewarding journey just an hour from Luang Prabang town. Halfway between the park entrance and waterfall is the Asiatic Black Bear rescue centre, houses a couple of animals rescued from poachers and traffickers. A beautiful way to spend the day, we booked a mini van from travel agency next to our hotel,Villa Merry Laos III.

The rush of tumbling waters gushing downhill.

There's also trails where allow you to climb all the way up to the top where you can see the stream feeding into the falls and enjoy some natural pools. Trails can get slippery and steep but bearable.

Back to the Luang Prabang town while waiting for our 8pm sleeper bus to Vientiane.

Now coffee is definitely something worth a try, it comes with rich and strong aroma, mixed with sweet condensed or evaporated milk, there's pretty much no better way to spend a afternoon in a laid back Laos and explore the town while waiting.

Luang Prabang to Vientiane will take you 11 hours on a dry season, probably longer travel time in wet season. We won't want a day went wasted, assured, we got our sleeper bus ticket from the same travel agency next to our hotel. If you heard about the insecurity on the road, i think the only thing you should be worried about is the quality of your bus, make sure it's a sleeper bus for the long ride, of course don't expect cosy and comfy.

11 hours bus ride from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, and a tuk-tuk ride from Vientiane bus station to town center.

THIS IS VIENTIANE! 

This is a place long way from buzzing cities like Bangkok or Siem Reap, probably quite likely to be one of the smallest capital cities you'll ever visit. You should start your day with a Lao Coffee, on ice, local style and brace yourself for an intense dose of caffeine and sweetness. We decided to rubber tramp, but of course you should pedal your way around. That Dam- Patuxai- Pha That Luang- Wat Si Saket, that's how you should do it, with long sleeves and long pants as well.

There are many raw cultural experience that command your attention; temple Wat Si Saket stand chief among them, the oldest Buddhist temple in Vientiane, it was build in Thai structure, thus escape the fate of being burn down or destroy during the Siamese raid in 1828. In the inner cloister, you will find many Buddha idols made of stone, wood, silver and bronze, photography is not allowed inside Wat Si Saket cloister.

If you have enough time to spare, be sure to check out the Lao National Museum, where it detailed the history of this tiny landlocked nation carved from French Indochina. Artifacts include jars from the Plain of Jars, as well as war remnants from the struggles against Siamese, French and Americans, also the notorious Ho Bandits!

Lao Coffee made in European style with a side of pastry at one of those Vientiane's French cafe.

Pha That Luang.

Reclining Buddha of the Great Sacred Stupa (Pha That Luang).

Inside the resting area of monk, preparing for Alms Giving Ceremony.

Stone craved sitting Buddha of Pha That Luang.

And yes! Some football actions at Chao Anouvong National Stadium.

Vangthong evening food market is definitely the place for some local dinner, it right outside of Chao Anouyang National Stadium, it samples the best of everyday Laotian food that is authentic, delicious and amazing value. You have every right to worry about sanitary but it is such a popular local eating spot and the ingredient is always fresh.

The best way to experience Vangthong is simply stroll from one end to another, buy some small quantities of various snacks and foods.

Vangthong Evening Market.

One of the most common food to try Bla Kan Sung- Grilled river fish and Laos sausage.

It swarms with locals.

Beef Jerky!

Stroll along Chao Anou Road, you will find your way at the Mekong Riverside night market, this is a market aimed primarily for tourists with all manner of merchandises that make great souvenier.

BUDDHA PARK, MORNING MARKET AND MEKONG RIVERBANK

Buddha park is famous for its sculpture park with more than 200 religious statue with a huge 40 meters high reclining Buddha. It was built by a monk in fascination of Buddhism and Hinduism, all the sculptures cast in concrete, the sheer scale is impressive with slightly garbled images of Buddha, Shiva, Vishnu...

Breakfast at the hotel, Vientiane Star Hotel.

Inside the pumpkin-like sculpture, entering through the demon's mouth.

Climb up three stories that represent Hell, Earth and Heaven.

The reclining Buddha.

Giant of Buddha Park.

Adapting the P.D.R culture.

Monk at Buddha Park.

Talat Sao Morning Market and Shopping Mall, it splits into 2 areas, the one and only air-conditioned shopping mall, and the cavernous morning market with mass-produced t-shirts, trinkets and souvenirs. A genuine experience, the market might be disoriented but the walkways are tiled and clean.

The labyrinth of alley ways stock a mishmash of stacked high products. 

Goldsmith at the morning market.

Yet again, another caffeine fix.

The whole riverside area come alive in the evening, joggers, cyclists, badminton players, the whole exercise class taking advantage of the cooling breezes and stunning backdrop of sun lazily sinking into the Mekong river. Small food stalls emerge along the wide river bank selling barbecue, sticky rice, and other local foods.

One of the highway lane shuts down every evening for the access of Mekong river bank.

The wide spread of meadows and sands.

At the edge of Laos' Mekong riverbank overlooking Thailand, Nong Khai province.

And yes, horse riding adventure on Mekong riverbank.

Probably the whole class of Vientiane people are out here.

A must try local delicacy- Barbecue Cuttlefish!

We spend our last night exploring Vientiane's night.

LEAVING.

Laos is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful countries i've been to, our 5 days were magical, If you are still lukewarm on a Laos' trip, i say go! Go for sure, before it changes, becomes a "Disneyfication" of Laos.

Here's to our 3rd Annual Trip!

HIGH FIVE, LAOS! FOR BEING PRETTY DAMN AWESOME!

JW.

Equipped with GoPro and home made selfie pole, here a travel 360 degree panorama wanderlust. 

Lombok

Lombok is an island due east of Bali, geographically almost the same size of Bali; Lombok is a quiet alternate to cheaper- not as cheap and tranquil as in the past but better and cheaper than Bali, but don't get me wrong, i still love the Ubud side of Bali nonetheless. After-all, Bali was my second solo backpacking trip, it's a sentiment that's so primal and essential for my crafts.

Climate
Lombok has two seasons, wet and dry. Wet season generally runs from November to February, with heavy monsoon rainfall, humid and hot. Dry season from March to October, fine weather with clear and hot temperatures around 28°C. Breeze through the month of August to September. Best travel month from May to September. (and of course, due to global warming, this is probably inaccurate)



Average Costs
Accommodation
   1. Dorm (Backpacker)- IDR60k- 110k
   2. Budget Hotel- IDR110k- 225k
   3. Three Stars Hotel- IDR200k- 350k

Food
   1. Local Market- IDR10k- 25k (local eateries store)
   2. Local Restaurant- IDR30k- 55k (Fried Rice, Noodles)
   3. Beach-side Restaurant- IDR55k- 80k (Taliwang Chicken, Curry Dish, Fish)
   4. Seafood Platters for Two (Lobster, Prawn, Fish, Squid, Oyster)- IDR400k

Transport
   1. Taxi from Airport to Senaru- IDR300k (included in hiking trip package)
   2. Taxi from Senaru to Senggigi- IDR350k- 400k (included in hiking trip package)
   3. Taxi from Senggigi to Airport- IDR250k-300k
   (There are shutter buses as well)

Activities (Charge updated as of 6th April 2015)
   1. Mount Rinjani Trekking via Senaru
       - Rim Hike 2D1N- $ 175USD
       - Lake Hike 2D1N- $ 200 USD
       - Summit Hike 3D2N- $ 200USD
       (Green Rinjani offers most reasonable rates, also support tree planting!)
   2. Snorkeling- Gili Islands (Trawangan, Meno, Air)- IDR650k -900k
   3. Diving-

++Shot on Nikon D700 + Nikkor 105mm f2.0 occasionally Nikkor 20mm f2.8 & GoPro++ 

SENARU- GATEWAY TO MT. RINJANI

Touched down Lombok Airport, we were picked up by trekking agency, 2 hours ride from Airport to Senaru. Checked in Pondok Senaru Cottages arranged by trekking agency (Green Rinjani). So, you just need to source out your trekking trip, they will arrange everything for you (well almost). A basic lodge but the best view and strategic location (600m above sea level), it sits right in front of Sendang Gile waterfall entrance. Settle down our belongings and head for waterfall, an easy 20 min walk down a graded trail from Senaru Village.

Pondok Senaru Cottages Restaurant with an amazing view.

Breathtaking!

Clean and super cold!

Pool at Sendang Gile isn't deep- but good enough for a soak amongst the stunning surrounding.

Night falls around 6pm local time, we had a quick dinner across Pondok Senaru for some nice and simple local food (Fried rice, Noodle). 

Ready for the rim hike.

Nominated as UNESCO World Geopark.

TREKKING MT. RINJANI

Mount Rinjani, a spectacular attraction in the heart of Lombok, a second tallest volcano in Indonesia, stands at 3,726-meter. An active volcano, last eruption in October 2004. Tourism in Lombok flourished from the growing trekkers and hikers, despite the dangerously active volcano, people are allowed to climb all the way up to the crater. On top of the volcano is a 6-km wide caldera, contains hotsprings and partially filled by water coming from crater lake, "Segara Anak". 

This is not a trek or hike for everyone, trails are steep and slippery, it takes 5.5 hours to rim, 1 hour rest. Before the climb, make sure to have just enough clothes for hike, and windbreaker for an overnight stay at rim (10-12°C). 

Hike through savanna and forest area.

Lunch break at POS 2, after 2 hours.

It's amazing that how these portals manage to carry stove and gas along the hike and make a feast!

1 hour rest, my thighs started to cramp due to the weight of camera equipment :(  

Path begins to rise, elevated steep and slippery.

Hike through the sandy path.

Tree planting :)

It get colder nearing the rim.

Hike from POS2 to POS3, 2.5 hours.

It gets tougher with sands and rocks trek, thigh muscle at its max capacity.

Beautiful surrounding during the hike. 

It took us 5.5 hours to our basecamp.

Drift like clouds, across beautiful lands, an unfathomable journey of endless awesomeness!

6-km wide caldera.

Crater rim, Breathtaking!

All pay off despite the difficult trek!

Dinner over sunset above clouds.

Endless scroll of awesomeness!

Temperature drop abruptly after night falls, it was freezing! Windbreaker and long john is highly recommended, without proper wears, we spent our night hiding in the tent. 

A night of thousand stars.

Awe in nature's best combination of beauty and danger, desolate yet so beautiful, a demanding trek of muscle and strength, makes it worthwhile. Trekking down Mount Rinjani took us another 4 hours, putting fitness level onto another round of test. 

Break of dawn, mountain top bask in sun.

SENARU TO SENGGIGI (GILI'S)

Got back to the Pondok Senaru to collect our luggage, carry onto our next adventure, Senggigi, another 2 hours private car ride to Sengigi, included in our trekking package. Reached Puri Bunga Beach Cottages, sourcing for a next day snorkeling trip to Gili's. A hotel worth recommend, room is well equipped, large, with a open air bathroom; we had a room at the top, it was a bit of effort getting to the room especially after a hike, but we had great view.

Trying out some of the local cuisine at Senggigi Town.

Arching from northwest corner of Lombok, Gili Islands are three islands where the sand are powdery white and water in sparkling turquoise. 1.5 hours boat-ride from Senggigi Beach to Gili's island (Trawangan, Meno and Air). 

Snorkeling!

IDR900k for an 8 hours Snorkeling with private boat, we are free to stay as long as we want at any of the 3 islands, pretty luxury for the service! The Gili Islands were only discovered 30 years ago by seafaring Bugis people from Sulawesi, and was later developed into a hippy party islands. 

Last night at Lombok, stroll along the town of Senggigi.

And yes, we did splurge a little bit on the last night, seafood platters, red snapper and salmon!

The Taman Restaurant.

LEAVING LOMBOK

We spent 5D4N in Lombok, an endless scroll of amazing adventures from mountain top to sea bed. A place more than just a mirror of Bali as acclaimed by many, this is special. Witnessing unbelievable view from rim top, a fantastic feat of accomplishment. A sad note was the amount of trash not only at campsite, on the trails as well, I'm glad we'd opted for Green Rinjani, they didn't leave a single trace of trash behind, and we managed to plant 2 trees along the trek.

Breakfast at Puri Bunga.

The Hangover.

JW.

Minimalist Travel Photography

Travel light, travel right, travel with one backpack. Travel photography is inspiration and exciting, but easy to get carried away for what to prepare for the trip. Of course it’ll be fantastic to take all your kit abroad, but why? Try to streamline as much as possible, having less stuff to schlep around and less things to go astray in worst case. Roll your clothes for more space! With 2 important attributes of packing correctly:
  1. Weight for carryon- Airlines have different rules for carryon, which most a 10kg
  2. Size for carryon- Check for Airlines rules, I did it with Deuter Futura 38 AC (35L or lower will fit)

My backpack+ another day bag for camera gears (either Lowepro Flipside 200 or Think Tank Streewalker)
I will put my clothes at the bottom, socks, undergarments on side pocket, toiletries on top pocket
then i slot in my day bag into the middle. 

Slot in like this, easy for airport inspection, you just have to pull out the middle kernel. This combination, fit right for carryon, size and weight. 

When I travel, I do it to experiencing the raw culture of the country, more than just taking pictures of things. You need to experience and understand only then you’ll be able to capture the essence of the culture (them), a deeper perspective. I usually take it slowly, one of the reasons I usually travel alone. Photography is an artistic pursuit, but I will prioritize on my movement. I am a travel minimalist, I usually take one body, one lens (sometime 2), if I have enough space, I bring along a film camera. Shooting with one lens, it saves you the hassle of plugging in and out your camera, it forces you into meticulous observer mode, it turns you into approachable of things, then you’ll find juxtapositions or contrasts.

I worry less about which lens to bring, which body to take, I am not on assignment, and this is travelling for godsake! Nikon D700 with 50mm f1.2, I worry less about missing rare photographic shots, I should bring this, I should bring that, blah! So how do I pack lightly? Here are some guidelines, not rules.

  1. Plan your trip with research (Weather, Festival/ Event, Travel photo- to know what to expect)
  2. A day bag to hold your camera gears (i use either Think Tank Streetwalker or Lowepro Flipside 200)
  3. Cut down on camera accessories, take what you need! 
  4. Reduce selection of clothes, unless you’re going for fashion show. Are you?

I paid a hefty “price” to fine tune these travel minimalist for years. I’d been over trips bringing the whole drybox, then down to one film body with 50 f1.2. I bring everything and subconsciously I thought I must be able to capture everything! Little did I know, I didn’t enjoy my trip at all, it was a disaster. 

My favorite combination, D700 50 f1.2 and a bonus 20 f2.8, sometimes, a Nikon FE.

REASON?
  1. No more gear acquisition syndrome, OCD.
  2. Master a single focal length, your eye is your lens.
  3. It helps you on the creative side, with discipline! 

You are unencumbered and free to enjoy the atmosphere, people and culture without feeling like packhorse, worry less about security. You can free your mind from having to think about what perspective and lens to take a scene, but you find the essence in details. With one lens, and sufficient experiences, your eye naturally looks for composition that fit before even looking through the viewfinder. Over a span of 4 years, I did this in several occasions, Beijing, Tianjin, Melbourne, Tasmania, Bali, S. Korea, Yogyakarta, Krabi, Ho Chi Minh, Siem Reap, Hong Kong, and Yuanyang.

HOW I DID IT? Here a list of what I bring (exclude winter vacation):

  • Camera Gears- in day bag (Lowepro or Think Tank)
-          Nikon D700
-          Nikon FE with 2 extra film rolls (if enough space)
-          Nikkor 50mm f1.2
-          Nikkor 20mm f2.8
-          LEE Filters (0.6, 0.9, Big Stopper)
-          2 extra batteries (Battery charger in big backpack)
-          3 extra 16gb CF card 
-          Cable release
  • Clothes & misc.- in big backpack (Deuter) 
-          1 pair of shorts
-          1 pair of jeans+ belt (wearing onboard)
-          1 long sleeve shirt (wearing onboard)
-          1 pair of boots (wearing onboard)
-          5 tee shirts
-          1 pair of flip flop
-          4 pairs of socks
-          4 pairs of undergarments
-       Tripod (I'm using Benro C0680T)- travel angel!
-       Universal adapter & phone charger
-       Toiletries & medicine 
For winter vacation, I will check in my backpack (with winter clothes), carryon camera bag.

Lowepro Flipside 200 fits in Nikon D700, Nikkor 50mm, Nikkor 20mm, 3 Lee filters, 2 extra baterries, 2 16gb CF card, cable release


If you wish to fall into my trap, you should know what you’re dealing with. Life and photography, a compromise but it needs to be hard decision. Zoom lens like 18-200 it covers 90% of the shots but do you found joy in this depressing bokeh? Bokeh is my prime, I adhere with discipline, so I keep my 50mm on most of the time, but what happen if I shooting landscape, I’ll just do panorama stitches, and sometime Brenizer method. Keep it simple, find the balance, focus on what you can control. There is no right and wrong, minimalist or what not, this is an article on my packing flow, there are thousand of sites on different recommendations, find the one that suits your needs. I want to be light and free, this is imperative to me, not for everyone. 

What's your balance of travel? 

Live, Travel, Adventure, Bless, and don't be sorry. 
Enjoy the road of life, Happy Travelling 2014! 

JW. 

Siem Reap- More than a Great Gate to Angkor

Siem Reap, a gate to Angkor region, which undoubtedly the biggest core of tourist magnet in Cambodia. Tourism is the lifeblood of Siem Reap and without careful management it could become Siem Lapse of Flunk. There are prominent signs that developers are learning from the mistakes blighted at other regional hot spots, restrictions on height of hotels and bus sizes; however the damage of development is inevitable, logging activities started to threaten certain parts of Siem Reap with flood. Angkor is center stage on the world travel map right now, there's no going back for its supply line.

More than just a Golden gate of Angkor.

++ Shot with Nikon D700 + Nikkor 50mm f1.2 occasionally Nikkor 20mm f2.8 ++

Entrance to Angkor Wat

Transportation from Siem Reap airport to town will take about 20 minutes by taxi (USD 7). Most of the taxi drivers in Siem Reap are professional, friendly and well verse in several languages. If you're in group, you can straight away arrange tours with the driver, but make sure you do some homework before you commit, check here.

We didn't pre-book accommodation, our taxi driver brought us around town for hotels, we settled-in Tan Kang Angkor Hotel- (USD 43/night) for 4 person, it turned out to be a pleasant surprise. Great location, great value and friendly staff; it is located right in the heart of town, stone-throw from Old Market, Night Market, Pub Street... 

Hostel price cost between 1-3 USD, guesthouse cost 3-8 USD
Budget hotel range from 10-20 USD for air-con, private bathroom

ANGKOR WAT


Settling down, breakfast at town, we head out to the wonder of the world, Angkor Archaeological Park, admission fee here. Before that, here are some facts about Cambodia, ethic Chinese consists of around 10% of Cambodia's total population, the number decreased from 425,000 in 1970 to 61,400 in 1984, this was due to Khmer Rouge genocide from 1975 to 1979, 4 years costed 2 millions lives, it is commonly known as the Cambodia Holocaust. A one-fifth of the country's population were killed, almost all educated people with their families were murdered, starved and tortured.

USD is widely used in Cambodia, only for notes and coins are not accepted. Cambodians earn very little on average, a university leaver earn not more than USD 250 a month; school leaver earns around USD 150 a month, construction labor earns USD 5-6 a day.

On the way from Siem Reap town to Angkor region.

Side-way of Angkor Wat, studying wonders of Khmer & Dravidian art.

Lady worker at Angkor Wat with her daugher.

Inside Angkor Wat.

Towards the heart of Angkor Wat.

Sandstone sculptured of female divinity. 

Angkor Wat from the side.

Gardener of the Angkor Wat.

At the end of Angkor Wat.

October is a rainy season for Siem Reap, it was pouring a day before our arrival, Siem Reap treated us good, it was all sunny during our 3 days trip, the heat built up.

From the heart of Angkor Wat.

A Hindu, then subsequently Buddhist temple complex in Cambodia and the largest religious monument in the world. It was built by Khmer King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century.

Monk at Angkor Wat.

Coconut to cool off the heat! 

Angkor Wat was amazing, i wouldn't say i feel the same sense of awe i felt during my encounters with Borobudur Temple, but it was still bloody thrill! I think the reason was due to the huge and long walk way to get to the temple, first gaze upon it still a long distance away, till i get up close only then appreciate its' beauty and immense size. It is impressive. 

TA PROHM


We continue our temples run towards Ta Prohm, a temple made famous by "Tomb Raider". It is undoubtedly the most photogenic ruin in Angkor, with trees growing out of ruins. Built from 1186, Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. It is one of the few temples in Angkor where an inscription provides information about the temple's inhabitants. The inscription also notes that the temple contained gold, pearls and silks. 
  
After the fall of Khmer empire in 15th century, the temple was abandoned and swallowed by the jungle.

Ta Prohm backyard.

The equal power of nature.

Little boy at Ta Prohm.

Ta Prohm exit.


PHNOM BAKHENG


We should've continue our temples run to Bayon Temple, but we give it up for a late lunch. It was almost nightfall, sun sets in around 5.45pm here (October), we have less than an hour to run between several temples, we opt for romantic sunset at Phnom Bakheng. A Hindu temple in the form of a temple mountain. It was constructed at the end of 9th century, more than 2 centuries before Angkor Wat, during the reign of King Yasovarman.

The temple is wide open to all direction, main temple faces east and built in a pyramid form of six tiers. It boasted 108 small towers around temple at ground level and on several tiers.

But only a few towers remained, from here, you get to see Angkor Wat too.

Sunset over Phnom Bakheng.

SIEM REAP TOWN- NIGHTLIFE


It ends our temples run for the day, it was nightfall, we have to leave Angkor as it closes. We head back to Siem Reap town, the town turns alive at night! The slivers of alley at Old Market, Pub Street and Night Market all turn into liveliest nightlife! For both dining and drinking, there are varies of venue to choose from for a fun evening out. From intimate stylish places places of quiet cocktail to Khmer disco pace with loud music, there is something for everyone. 

Average meal cost in Siem Reap
Roadside stall will normally cost you 1-1.5 USD
Mid range restaurant cost from 6-8 USD

We opt for some genuine local food from roadside stall.

Noodle soup and fried noodle (USD 1 each)

Siem Reap Market established in 2012, here you find smoothly laid out huts built from natural materials and designed beautifully in Khmer style, there are around 240 souvenirs shops that sell Cambodian made crafts from silk, painting, jewelries, wood, stone, paper cravings. 

At the alley off pub street.

TONLE SAP


We hit the sack early since we had a long day planned. Ocean might defines most the South East Asia countries, but in Cambodia, it is dominated by another feature, a great massive lake of Tonle Sap.

Before Kampung Phluk.

Before Kampung Phluk.

House along Kampung Phluk entrance.

Before Kampung Phluk.

Study hour in national schools of Cambodia is 5 hours, 8am to 12pm. For those who has more spending power will send their children to after school at specific language schools. You can see why, most of the tour guides are well versed in several languages.

Entrance to Tonle Sap from Kampung Phluk.

Boat ride will cost you around USD 20 per person.

For most of the year the lake is fairy small but during this wet season, it swells to be one of the largest in all of Asia, spanning over 16,000 square km, with depth of 9 meters. 

It floods over houses, forests and paddy fields.

Here, there is a serious class of divine, for those in floating houses are the poorer family, those in stilted homes are family who tend to be more financially comfortable. Here a stilted house with aquatic farming.

We rest midway towards opening of Tonle Sap at a small restaurant, a visible English lesson on chalk board, teachers from NGO came regularly for home school. 

Little kids of Tonle Sap. 

At the vast opening of Tonle Sap, it is nothing like a lake but a massive ocean!

From Tonle Sap to country side- Ta Som Sustainability Project

COUNTRY SIDE OF SIEM REAP


Cambodia is more than just Angkor region, but the cultural magnet of country side as well. A walk through villages, we see sugar palm trees, water buffaloes, traditional wooden houses- where the influences and acculturation have not yet arrived.

Sugar palm leaves.

A beautiful scenic of country side surrounded by sugar palm trees.

Another pleasant surprise  This is not at all a touristy place, this is a place, homed to their culture before influences in its authentic way.

Don't get him wrong, he is not asking for 3 dollars, he was indicating "OKAY" when i was waving my camera at this little boy. 

Agriculture remains the main source of income for Cambodian. Most of the Cambodian living in rural are self-sustaining, having their own crops trading for money and livestock manure, slurry, effluent and eventually foods.

Countryside wooden houses are built in 2 story foot tall house, during high noon, villagers taking shelter from heat at the open area downstairs.

Countryside wooden houses front yard.

Villager weaving fishing trap.

Cleaning up livestock's excrement for manure.

Sugar palm wrapping.

Children of the Ta Som project.

Fishing at the paddy field.

Children take up responsibility at early age by taking care of their livestock. 

We dropped by Pre Rup on our way back from countryside to town. It was built as a state temple of Khmer king Rajendravarman and dedicated in 961 or early 962, a temple mountain of combined brick, laterite and sandstone construction.

Sunset view from the hotel room.

NIGHT AT PUB STREET 


Some might find this overwhelmed, but here is where everybody is. Lined with restaurants, bars with cheap beer and reasonable food. We had our dinner at Khmer Kitchen BBQ restaurant off the pub street lane, a classy Khmer restaurant offers good food at reasonable price. 

Khmer Kitchen. 

Little girl at the old market.

Chilling at the Red Piano. A big thumbs up for the perfect atmosphere at the corner entrance to Pub Street.

Snake for supper! 

Due to starvation during Khmer Rouge rule, Cambodians turned to spiders, crickets, grasshoppers and other insects for food. Even today these creepy crawlers are favorite snacks for local especially during rainy season.

Music starts thumping around Pub Street and often almost a party atmosphere. 
The X-Rooftop Bar, great atmosphere, strange music.

Here, probably the highest vantage point in the town where you get to see the night in light.

LOST IN SIEM REAP


I got up at 5 before sunrise, glimpse into the morning life of Siem Reap. Here a must do routine on my backpacking days, get lost and blend in the raw culture of locals. 

Islam is the religion of a majority of the Cham, due to the prosecution under Khmer Rouge eroded their numbers, and now there are estimated 1.6% of the population are Muslim. 

Female butcher at the old market.

Inside the old market, traders cleaning and getting their store ready.

Little kids at the Old Market frolicking on the cutting board.

Traders at Old Market.

At the random street of Siem Reap.

Students are queuing up for exam day.

Waffle maker by the field.

Sunrise at Taphul Village.

Getting ready for school.

An old temple at Taphul Village.

Villagers enjoying breakfast in front of the temple.

Monk at the temple.

Breakfast stall at roadside.

We had our best Khmer Fish Amok at Temple Club, if you tend to dine in, avoid dinner hour, go in by lunch or breakfast.

Unfortunately we went to the national museum on our last day, should've gone in the first day before temples run, it summarizes all the seeings in several exhibitions. No photography is allow at the museum, this i understand but demands to get my camera equipment stored on an open cabinet (because their security lockers are full), which they also will not be responsible for lost, this i am furious. Just don't bring bag for your museum visit. 

Next on, high tea! I was attracted by its Khmer wooden architectural design when i was lost in Siem Reap in the morning, luckily i manage to find it afterwards. It is an immediate sense of relaxation take off by its beautiful design and comfortable setting, the food and coffee were perfect. We spent hours here, chilling. 


Interior of Rohatt Cafe, it turns out, wasn't too far from Old Market.

Evening past-time at the river bank.

MUCH MORE NIGHTLIFE


We picked up some leaflet at the X Rooftop bar a day earlier, and found some highly recommended local cuisine called Sugar Palm, it took us a really long walk to find this place. 

Finding Sugar Palm.

To my surprise, Sugar Palm is on 4 stars on Trip Advisor, and a Certificate of Excellent 2013. Boy! That sucks! It was probably the worst food we ever tasted in the whole Siem Reap. Frankly, a dollar roadside noodle soup was a lot way better. The decoration is airy and beautifully surrounded by Sugar Palm trees. Too bad the food is poor, Amok, Beef, Satay are under standard. Such a hype on Trip Advisor!

Back to Pub Street, Triangle BBQ Bar for beers and live band.

LEAVING


We spent 3 full days in Siem Reap, it was amazing to see Angkor Wat, complex over such a vast area. We didn't have enough time to check out all the temples, heard that would take a week. Siem Reap is not the only gateway to Angkor, it also a golden gateway to Tonle Sap and cultural countryside. I'm glad i got to catch a glimpse on Cambodians culture and experience a new country. This is an experience of lifetime, as Angkor Wat's popularity on its rise, you should probably go before too late. Sooner or later, there will be too much tourist and it becomes touristy. 

The Hangover.

Regards,
JW.

Bali- the Sunshine Island

It's a phony. 'twasn't exactly how it sounded like, Bali is not a Sunshine Island through out the year, it has Monsoon season from November to March. But then, Bali is one awesomely special island, it was as though it'd gained its independent from Indonesia. Despite Indonesia being the world most populous Muslim majority country, Bali is home to Hinduism. The culture had been around for ages, and it's so contagious, couple of lifestyle sets apart from other lands, from every aspect of its rich culture, festival, event. Balinese are also, great believer in Karma.

Bali is such distinguish that Balinese use 3 types of Calenders for a year: Western, Saka and Wuku. In Wuku year, it has 35 days a month, 12 months a year, and this 6th of July (western calender), they'll be celebrating the biggest festival of Bali! "Galungan", it symbolizes the victory of Dharma upon Adharma (all evil). Balinese will make special "penjor" fits on the right side entrance to every house, "penjor" is a tall bamboo that Balinese bought specially from the market, the best one could goes up to 100,000Rp. Similar to Christmas, the only different is, Balinese show off their craft at their entrance!

Every Balinese have an altar in their house, and every housing area there's a big temple amidst the neighbourhood, and each temple accompanied with a meeting hall cross road. Every stone wall, every street, every aisle... all clothed with green lungs.

This is Bali.

++





Like they said, " May Bali's Peace be with you always."
and their smile, warm up the peace of Bali.


i didn't notice any bus around but trucks seem to be a mainstream transportation for the workers.

Balinese pray 3 times a day, 6am, 12pm and 6pm.
They worship their god in myriad of offerings, from Cookies to Paddy.


Kuta's Surfing Beach.



love the way Balinese people appreciate Green Lungs,
believe me, i did saw a signboard saying, "no putting down trees without permission."

More Trees, Less assholes

busy Kuta had got me crazy, it's crowds every where i go. No place for roving!
so i hopped on a shuttle bus (it was a van to be exact) towards the heart of Bali! Ubud i go!

and newspaper guys on the go at traffic light!

Ubud!

off to work!

Rented a motorbike in Ubud for 50,000Rp (24hrs), drove all the way back down South Bali, Uluwatu catching the last light of Bali.




Bali's sky is really amazing! Breath-taking too!
and it took my heart away.

On the very next day,

i rode from Ubud to Tegalalang, and yes, still on my motorbike, it's still valid until evening! Pretty good deal for a 50,000Rp. Unlike Kuta, Ubud is much of a peaceful land, it gave a little more space for me to redefine- my destination. Despite disregarding my itinerary that i'd been working out for so many nights, skipping all the main tourist attractions; i felt like a cowboy on Harley-Davidson! A lone wanderer rides on for a mission of peace!





Absolut Petrol!

This wooden Buddha was found in this position. Humble in soul.










the temple wood craving master, very friendly too!



i'd been wandering around with my bike, i mean the Harley *ahem* and seriously, i don't freaking know where the hell was i! i was in nowhere for good!

the fact that i am officially lost! i stopped at a random small village asking for direction, and they invited me to! Cock-fight! 'twas random! Direction? Cock-fight!


Mount Agung, the highest ground of Bali Island.








Road sign in Bali is awfully bad, i'd been stopping for numerous times asking for direction back to Ubud. Well, it wasn't really that bad. Luckily Balinese love to help!

Travel needs a destination; Roving needs to come to an end.
i was then, eventually ended my wanders got back to Ubud.









MeatBall Noodles! Meat balls were so-so, but the soup, absolutely appealing! blend of spicy and slight sweetness!







My initial plan was to stay in Ubud for 2 days, then hop on another shuttle bus to Besakih.
i just can't leave Ubud, just yet!


Ubud's Morning market, where i met Kenji.











the best Nasi Campur ever!
Balinese are really tourist-friendly! There was a long queue for the nasi campur, it wasn't until 6th or 7th person for our turn. and the Balinese offer me and Kenji the nasi campur first, gosh! that was really great!

Kenji from Japan, thanks to him! i had the best Nasi Campur in Ubud!

Balinese preparing their "penjor" for Galungan.







Nightfall at 630pm

the awesome star dust of Ubud!
Sorry i really can't identify which one is North star! Damn!

Ubud broke of dawn in an awesome sunlight!
Birds are singing, Balinese are smiling.


i remember a Balinese told me about their Stone Sculptures; with soul or no soul he said.
and this Buddha by the roadside, humbly displaying his wonder. it caught my attention, and i can't take my eyes off him.






On the crossroad of dithering,
Counting my steps, march on.
it wasn't only the Peace of Bali i missed,
also, the freedom of roving.


Ubud, Signing off.

Regards,
JW

Ps: Sorry for not being able to provide travel tips, i believe everyone begs to differ in travel experience. I longed for a travel lifestyle of wandering and roving into raw culture, instead of comfortably. A simple bed and as long as it's not haunted, i'm good. I'll be happy to share if anyone is interested, email me. Cheers!